Each Time Ever They Hated My Face

Oddly enough, I have some enemies, of sorts, here in Japan. I am apparently hated by three or four people I’ve never shared more than a few words with. Usually, such hate occurs soon after I’ve begun speaking and people suddenly invent friends, even in empty rooms, or feign death.  But not in these cases. (Well, maybe in one case.)

My first enemy is a man I’ve seen four times since we moved to Kawagoe. He’s clean and well fed but always seems to be just short of cash in the train station and wonders if people could help–a common con around the world, by the way. The first time I met him, he grabbed me and started a story of woe and pain and I told him to go away. Two years later, in the same station, he grabbed me from behind again and asked for money. I chased him away again. Two years after that (yes, I really do see him every two years) he grabbed me and as soon as I turned around he recognized me and ran away. Then, just this year, we ran into him in a different station, this time inside the gate. I chased him away from a group of foreigners and told them how he and I were good friends, sort of. (She Who Must Be Obeyed saw him this time, which actually makes me feel as if he may actually exist in the world and not just in my head.)

The second guy is an asshole I’ve run into twice on the train. He’s rail thin, about my age and always wears aviator sunglasses a couple sizes too large for his head. If I sit near him he starts this angry, anti-foreigner whisper that I pretty much have learned to ignore. I haven’t seen him for a few years.

The most interesting case is a man I see almost every work day. He’s heading away from the station about the time I’m heading toward it. Everyone’s suffered that awkward moment where you see someone approaching and you know that eventually you will have to acknowledge their existence, usually with a grunted “w’sup?” or “howzigon?” and a nod. I nodded at him, especially when it became clear we would meet regularly. He apparently got tired of seeing my face, though, and started crossing the street to get away from me as we drew close. (In his defense, I do not know how bad I smell, so he may have good reason to flee.) He’s so desperate to get away that a couple of times he’s nearly been hit by approaching cars as he stepped into the street.

The funny part about this one is I used to pass a woman on the same road who started doing the same thing. She also almost got hit by cars a couple times.

I, of course, helped the situation by laughing at them and shaking my head.

 

Missing the Fishing and the Forest but not the Trees

One of the things I miss from growing up in Colorado is fishing just down the road from my house. We had a couple fishing spots we used to frequent (Two Mile bridge? One Mile bridge? I don’t remember what they were called.) At that time carp was bait. You’d catch it, hack it up and use it to catch something else. Or you’d use salmon eggs. (Now, here in Japan, carp and salmon eggs are dinner.)

We also used to attempt fishing at Vaughn Lake, but always came away with naught but new swear words from my dad and a reasonably pleasant camping experience. (That’s no joke, by the way. We never caught a fish in Vaughn Lake.)

I did, however, discover that I was allergic to pretty much everything in the air. This reached its extreme after I helped my dad photograph a rodeo. I was down in the unkempt area between the arena and the outer safety fence and inhaling all kinds of animal related microorganisms and various kinds of pollen. The result was a runny nose and swollen eyes. More specifically, my reaction was bad enough it triggered scleritis (scleral edema) and my eyeballs swelled.

A trip to the doctor was followed by a motorcycle trip to Denver to see an allergist. I was allergic to all 32 things he injected into my back and was put on a lengthy treatment that involved drinking a cocktail of allergens in a cold drink each morning and evening. When we moved back to Kansas, I discovered a couple other things I was allergic to and those were added to the cocktail.

In the end, my allergies are 95% cured. I still get a mild reaction if I’m locked in a room with cats, but most trees don’t bother me. Except here in Japan.

Although I’ve always wanted to take the girls fishing and camping, there are some complicating factors.

1) Fishing laws are confusing here.
2) She Who Must Be Obeyed isn’t interested.
3) Our youngest suffers from mild asthma, mostly during weather changes, and also seems to have inherited some of my allergies.

Making things worse, back in the 50s and 60s Japan hacked down 43% of its domestic trees and replaced them with fast growing industrial cedar. The mono-crop not only destroyed ground cover and chased off wildlife, it also created a cottage industry in masks and other allergy goods when it was discovered that many Japanese are allergic to cedar pollen. The pollen gets bad enough that it looks like smoke pouring off the trees and the national news gives pollen reports the same way they report the weather. (Their scale runs from “It’s Okay” to “It’s hell out there” to “Stay the hell inside and don’t breathe.”) Every other year, despite those years of treatment, even I have some problems because of it.

We therefore haven’t been camping with the girls and they’ve never had the joy of catching a gorgeous fish and then killing it and eating it. My goal is to take the girls to Vaughn lake one day and finally pull a damned fish out of that lake.

Use it Till it Crumbles Into Dust and Then Some More

When it comes to electronics and electrical and mechanical products, I’m not what you’d call brand loyal–although I do tend to prefer Canon cameras. Instead, I try to buy something that’s gotten good reviews, is of decent quality and comes at a reasonable price. I then use it and use it and use it until well beyond the “replace by” date.

The result is cars that fell apart soon after I sold them and a television, bought used, that we didn’t replace until the tube had failed so badly that the entire picture had become a green strip in the middle of the screen. We used the new TV until Japan switched to terrestrial digital format and we were told it wouldn’t work again. (Turns out, it did work, so we used it for another year until we replaced it with a Sony Bravia.) I used a laptop I purchased in 1997 until the backlight on the monitor died. Then I put an external monitor on it and used it as a desktop for another couple years. After it finally died, I used it as a stand for my new laptop.

The “new” laptop still works–well, it did until Microsoft sabotaged Windows XP and now I’m using it with Linux. I will use it until it doesn’t turn on. Only then will I think about getting rid of it–even thought it has, technically already been replaced.

This is partly the result of an “if it ain’t broke don’t replace it” attitude combined with a philosophy of “if you understand it, don’t buy something that will require lots of faffing about to configure and understand”. That’s all combined with my view of getting my money’s worth out of the purchase. (Yes, I am the guy who has 20 year old t-shirts that are now either pajama tops or house cleaning clothes.)

Even if something is old and broken, I’ll still use it as long as its basic functions will work. Case in point, the cellphone I bought in 2006. It still works as a phone and an alarm clock. Granted, it now has a few, um, cosmetic issues that require some care and duct tape:

It's just a flesh wound.

It’s just a flesh wound.

A friend of mine would sell his computers every few years in order to recoup some of his money and put it toward a new computer. (However, he’s now become a Mac user which means he no longer has a soul and cannot be trusted.) I understand why he does this; however, I believe using it until stops working accomplishes the same goal. (Money isn’t everything, after all, although it does tend to dominate a lot of things.)

Despite all this, I am now in the market for a smartphone. I have to choose wisely though. That phone will be with me a very, very long time.

‘Tis A Consummation Doubtfully to be Wished

If you had told me, when I was a kid, that I could have a paying job where I spent most of my time sitting around doing nothing and that there was a place with all-you-can-eat sweets, I’d say that was pretty much my vision of heaven.

Then, strangely enough, I found both in the same country.

When I first started working in Japan, I was required to be at school on weekdays even when there was nothing for me to do. In fact, my first assignment was to sit around and “plan” and “study Japanese” while the students took exams. “Planning” and “studying Japanese” took care of the first two hours. Then I wrote a bit which took care of the third hour. Then I read a bit, which took care of the fourth. Then I ate lunch. Then, whatever I tried to do, I couldn’t do anything. My brain was so overcome with restlessness/cabin fever, that I couldn’t focus on anything. Remember how that last five minutes of Algebra felt in high school when the clock didn’t move and teacher became more and more incomprehensible? That’s pretty much what my entire afternoon was like, except I didn’t have math gibberish to comfort me (in an odd way).

Even after I got a laptop computer and put Civilization II on it, I found it was difficult to concentrate those last two hours. Sometimes in my current job, especially during school trips, I find myself with a five hour “lunch”. That last hour is hell, even with internet access.

I also found that world where you can eat all the sweets you want. In fact, Japan seems to have quite a few all-you-can-eat sweets buffets. Back when I was in Niigata, I went to such a buffet with She Who Must Be Obeyed and one of her friends. There was a great mix of cake and ice cream and other random pastries and all the coffee we could drink for 90 minutes. This was great at first. I was thinking “Let me eat cake!” and “Bring me coffee in a golden goblet. I’ll have none of this ceramic crap! Where is my golden spoon?”

After 45 minutes, I began to feel the pain. My body started to reject the sweets (the same way your body starts to reject beer and wine when you’ve had too much) and even the coffee started tasting bland. After one hour, I was ready to sell my soul for a slice of bacon. (The devil did appear, but he only had lightly fried Canadian bacon so I told him to screw off and send another deity.) If there’d been a shaker full of salt anywhere nearby, I’d have poured it in my coffee.

Today, to celebrate the last day of the Golden Week holiday, we went to a place called Sweets Paradise, which let us gorge on sweets for 90 minutes, but also provided pasta dishes (which is, arguably, another form of sugar) and rotisserie chicken. The non-sweets helped a lot, but we still all reached the “that’s about enough of that” point.

We got what we wished for though–so much we didn’t want it anymore–and we got an inch or two on our waistlines for free.

Small Smaller Smallest Best

I’ve always had a moody relationship with music, meaning when you ask me what kind of music I like, I’ll tell you it depends on what mood I’m in (another post is needed to explain that). When it comes to music players, though, I’m of the smaller is better, smallest is best school.

Back about the time we moved from our trailer to our house in the Golden Meadows subdivision, my father bought what, for the time, was a pretty impressive stereo system–complete with a turntable and a cassette player. Oddly, despite the impressive speakers, one of his favorite records was a master direct-to-disc recording of a thunderstorm that he mostly used to make the unsuspecting think it was raining outside. (I still don’t get that, by the way. It’s like selling plasma TVs by showing fields of flowers–who the hell cares about fields of flowers enough to watch them on TV?)

Despite the impressiveness of the stereo, I quickly found that I was not a big fan of records or cassettes. By this I mean, although I would eventually buy a few records and quite a few cassettes, I was always bothered by the 80-20 rule of albums: 20% of the songs were good, 80% were crap. This meant I wore out cassettes playing and rewinding the same songs over and over. I’m also pretty sure I remember jamming the buttons on the stereo a couple times. Then there was the need to constantly flip the record and/or LP to hear the other side.

A large stereo also meant that I was subject to the whims of my parents’ taste in music and their shocking lack of interest in mine.

When I got my first Sony Walkman, I was immediately smitten by the portability of it. I liked the ability to carry it around and to block out the radio dead zone in Eastern Colorado and Western Kansas when we traveled to Salina. There was still the 80-20 problem, though, and was pretty heavy in the pocket.

I had a few boomboxes along the way, too, but I didn’t enjoy just turning on music and going about my daily tasks (or doing my best to avoid going about my daily tasks). Even a 90 minute mix tape required more attention than I liked giving music, especially if I wasn’t in the mood for some of the songs.

Eventually, I moved on to smaller and smaller players and even, for a brief time after I got to Japan, got a Sony Discman that was just barely larger than the size of a disc. Unfortunately, it was also too heavy and it had a more expensive version of the 80-20 rule. I eventually gave it away.

My favorite player, for a while, was the Sony MD Walkman. For lots of complicated reasons, mini-discs never caught on in the USA but I enjoyed it. The player I had could have been hidden in a pack of cigarettes and I couldn’t feel it in my pocket when I was carrying it in a jacket. Unfortunately, the MD Walkman died and Sony was like “Well, we could fix it, but buying a new one and an ounce of gold would be cheaper”.

Being me, I went without any kind of portable music for a while. During that time the digital music player revolution happened and after a brief stint with an iRiver, I finally splurged for  second generation iPod touch. This, finally, met all my insane needs for music:

1–I could buy the 20% and ignore the 80%.
2–The player was light and easy to carry.
3–It was easy to swap out music as my moods changed.

I think it’s fair to say I’ve bought more music since I got the iPod than I did in all the years before. However, even now, I’m moody about music and I spend most of my time listening to podcasts.

Vaguely Dangerous and Totally Fun

We spent the day at a nearby park watching our youngest do dangerous things on playground equipment that’s probably illegal in most parts of the USA.

One of the things I like about Japan is that a lot of playgrounds and parks still have equipment that require a certain amount of common sense and provide a certain amount of danger. Tall jungle gyms–one park we like to visit has a 12 foot tall rope jungle gym; merry-go-rounds; tall slides; swings with no “seat belts”; and balance beams.

In fact, the only thing I see lacking is a tall Witch’s Hat with no inhibitor like we used to have on the playground of Edison Elementary School in Hayden, Colorado. I remember getting a hand and leg smashed every now and then but nothing horrible. We also had a rickety, splintery wood and pipe merry-go-round that could get up to a fair speed. (A good tether ball set would be nice, too.)

The best part, though, was the swings. We’d get swinging as high as possible and then jump out. (Hey, I said a “certain amount of common sense” was required, not a certain amount of good sense and/or intelligence.) I remember one guy coming off the swing with his feet pointing straight up at the sky. He managed to get them down before he landed.

When we visited Florida several years ago, I was appalled at the squishy safe playground equipment. Even the ground had been rubberized. It all reminded me of the play things you put in a hamster cage.

Today, though, I saw one little girl carrying a handful of dirt to show her parents. I saw a boy trying to hit his brother because his brother had knocked him off the raised discs. I also watched my daughter climb and fall off stuff and have a good time doing it. She tried the climbing wall; the swinging log path; the balance beam; the rope ladder climbs; and a few other potentially dangerous things.

ParkDay-5 ParkDay-3 ParkDay-1

The worst thing that happened, besides dirt, was she got chocolate on her butt. We’re still not sure how, but she’s eight, so it’s pretty much expected.

 

 

Carefully in Silence and in Darkness

Although I’ve never had any fear of speaking in front of groups of people, for better and for worse, I hate learning something new with people around. This is especially true of anything vaguely fitness related and/or language related.

This is part of an odd perfectionist streak that, when combined with a shocking ability to make excuses for not doing something, makes me a procrastinator without peer. In my most out of shape period, I couldn’t exercise if anyone was around, even my wife, especially as I could barely do two pushups at that time. Rather than see that pathetic level of fitness as a motivator, I let my embarrassment make excuses and talk me out of doing it. Once I got to a less pathetic ten, I could finally do them with people around, although I still preferred not to.

With language learning, I’ve never been able to do anything remotely resembling self-study–that’s worse if I’m in earshot of anyone. In Niigata, I used to have to go to the office for a few hours on Fridays and most days in the summer. Whenever I tried to study Japanese, I always had a horde of people around me watching what I was doing. Also, I’m not comfortable just sitting there and practicing the words. Even when I’m by myself, sitting down and writing and rewriting verb tenses whilst carefully repeating them works only until it’s actually time to use the language. At that point, the over-thinking panic sets in, brain lock occurs, and I have a hard time remembering what I studied.

Oddly, this is not true if I’m working with a teacher. I’ve never had problems doing karate moves during lessons, although I have a hard time practicing the moves at home with the family there. It all feels silly and I have to field “what are you doing?” questions. Also, I find that practicing defenses and attacks without another person isn’t that helpful because there’s no way to know if I’m doing it wrong. (See, I told you there were excuses.) I learn languages best in structured classes with teachers who know what they’re doing.

The best times I had for practicing new stuff used to be when the girls went away for the summer and I stayed home to do training or just spend time recharging. When they came back, I was ready to do stuff. Now, I have to steal moments after every one’s asleep or while they’re at the library. When I was trying to get back into shape, I used to do pushups in the kitchen with the lights off because I didn’t want to wake up She Who Must Be Obeyed. (Note: Our bedroom is near the kitchen and, for no reason whatsoever, has a translucent window.)

A lot of this applies to trying new hobbies as well. I can’t set up photo equipment or make a video or even practice sharpening knives if the girls are nearby. (In my defense, walking about the house with knives is probably pretty weird. Ah, another excuse.)

Someone There is Who Doesn’t Love a Wall

For reasons I don’t fully understand, a lot of people don’t seem to like working in cubicles. Cubicles are considered dehumanizing and isolating hells–usually by “experts” who work in private offices. If Robert Frost were writing “Mending Wall” nowadays his narrator would be mocking his cubicle neighbor by questioning what was being kept out and what was being kept in. “But here there are no cows.”

If I were the neighbor I’d tell him to shut the hell up and get his butt back in his own cubicle. “I don’t need any stinking cows. Good cubicle walls make good neighbors.”

As an introvert, I like having a small bit of dehumanizing isolating hell to call my own. I’ve seen Japanese offices with hundreds of people. Their desks are shoved together in neat rows, kind of like boxes stacked in a warehouse, and each desk is piled with random notebooks and binders and projects and each faces another desk. No one looks happy because everyone looks haggard while they wait for the boss to go home so they can go home. There’s no privacy and no way to personalize anything. It’s basically an urban sprawl of row houses inside a large room.

I bring this up because after 14 years in the same desk, I’ve suddenly been moved to a new desk. The new desk is smaller than the old desk and instead of shelves above the desk, I have shelves on my desk eating up some of my space. The desk is mashed together with eleven others to form a kind of island of full time part time teachers (long story). Everyone around me is great and a lot of fun, but everyone’s a bit too close now and I find myself wishing I was either on a corner or had some kind of partition. Good cubicle walls make good neighbors, or at least makes me a more pleasant one to be around, which is something that doesn’t happen very often. (The new chairs, I should add, are awesome.)

I’ve already begun looking around for quiet spaces to work outside of the office, but there aren’t that many around. Everything is designed to handle lots of people, not provide quiet spaces for them. The Japanese love their groups and I love them too; in another part of the building.

 

 

Bumping Bicycles and License to Kill

I’ve written before about how little annoyances can slowly wear on you when you live overseas. Now I see that a tube strike in London has put a swarm of amateur cyclists in the streets and this has reminded of two regional annoyances here in Japan: Bumping into people and people on bicycles trying to kill you and your family.

The former seems unique to the Joetsu area of Niigata Prefecture. When I visited Takada Park for cherry blossom viewing, I had five different people bump into with me within the first 60 feet of entering. I’m not talking light bumps or just brushing against me, I’m talking full on shoulder to chest collisions followed by looks of “What the hell?” from both parties involved (although my look was more “What the f@#k are you doing?”) Keep in mind this was pre-smartphone so the colliders actually lifted their eyes to recognize I existed.

I also had a man collide with me while he was walking and talking to his friend in Itoigawa. I saw this one coming a half block away and delivered the devastating blow myself; which, in retrospect, kind of makes me the jerk. in my defense, we were against a wall and I couldn’t get out of the way, not that I would have because I was in a hurry to catch a train and my pizza was getting cold. (I try to be a good person; really, I do.) I’m sure he had an interesting story about the foreign jerk who ran into him.

Keep in mind, I’ve walked the streets of London during new year’s bachanalia and the streets of New York during rush hour and never been bumped into once. In Japan it may actually be a park-related thing as even in the Tokyo region, I’ve had people bump into my camera tripod when I had it slung over my shoulder during a photo walk.

I don’t know if it’s putting their focus on the cherry blossoms whilst moving and not focusing on the direction their moving or if there’s a vague sense that, whatever they’re doing, it’s my job to move.

In Tokyo, though, the enemy is people on bicycles. I’ve been hit several times, especially from behind, by people who feel that ringing the bell on their handle bars is either absolution from sin or a license to kill. Part of the problem is that in Tokyo people feel inclined to cycle on the sidewalk, now matter how narrow the sidewalk is.

That said, size doesn’t always matter, so to speak. After She Who Must Be Obeyed moved to Tokyo, we were walking toward the station to have dinner. Along the way we crossed over a canal bridge. We were against the rail and there was a good three meters of sidewalk between us and the road. Despite this, a woman on a bicycle decided ringing the bell gave her permission to pass between us. At the last second, right as I jumped out of the way, she finally turned toward the open area. She hit me first then swerved away and hit She Who Must Be Obeyed.

I responded with great maturity by shouting at her and stomping on her spokes and threatening to throw the bicycle in the canal. Luckily, She Who Must Be Obeyed convinced me it was probably a bad idea. I told the woman she should get her moronic f@#king ass on the street where it f@#king belonged. (No really, I DO try to be a good person.) I then realized I should probably check and see if my pregnant wife was okay. (She was.)

Once every couple of years, the news reports on police efforts to rein in people on bicycles. They ticket them for running lights and riding on sidewalks. I sit back with a bowl of popcorn and cheer.

Clarity of Raw Fish and Cellphone Vision

One of the more interesting and disturbing things about living overseas is seeing the changes when you go back to your home country. There are the usual things: everyone’s aged a bit; trees have grown out; wall colors have changed; and your favorite hangouts have closed. Although those changes can be disconcerting, what really surprised me is the changes in raw fish and communications that occurred while I was away.

Raw Fish:
When I left the USA in 1996, neither I nor practically anyone I knew, had ever tried raw fish (I’d eaten raw oysters at The Boston Sea Party in Denver, but that doesn’t count.) I was intrigued by the idea of eating raw fish and vowed that, sometime during my first year, I would try it. Then, on my first day in Nou-machi, I ate at my colleague’s house and the first dish she offered was a plate of sashimi. I was like “as well now as another time” and attacked the sashimi without mercy. (I subsequently spent a good amount of time learning to pick slippery stuff up with plastic chopsticks.) I liked all the food I was offered, although two of them gave me pause: squid, which is a bit like eating a slippery unsweet gummy bear, and salmon eggs, which I remember using as bait when we went fishing near two-mile bridge Hayden.

Now, raw fish in all its forms is one of my favorite Japanese dishes (raw horse is another, but that’s another post). However, I’m in the land of raw fish and such things aren’t that surprising. What did surprise me was returning to Salina, Kansas in the early aughts and seeing a Japanese restaurant that served sushi. While I was spinning my totem to see if I was dreaming, She Who Must Be Obeyed was going “Hurry up! They’ve rice! They’ve got rice!”

I’m still stunned such a thing would exist in the middle of Kansas, even for a brief time. I’m also a bit surprised that sushi has become as popular as it has nationally. When I left it was in the realm of wealthy jerks and pompous well-to-dos. Now, it seems to be as common as potato chips.

Cellphones:
Speaking of wealthy jerks and pompous well-to-dos, when I left the USA, they were the only ones who had cellphones. When I got to Japan cellphone use was more common, but it still had a small group of users. By 1999 it had exploded in Japan. I remember reading that there were something like 3,000,000 cellphones in use in the USA while Japan had 30,000,000 in use (which meant one in four Japanese had one). In Japan this was driven by shockingly expensive land-line installation prices so I wasn’t surprised. I got my first cellphone when I moved to Tokyo and having one made my job easier.

However, about the time I was in the USA trying to figure out if the sushi restaurant was real, I also noticed that several of my friends had cellphones. (And, for the record, they were not wealthy jerks or pompous well-to-dos, for the most part.) A few years later, even my mother had one and, in 2013, everyone had a smartphone.

Except me.

I’m now in the smartphone market, not out of any desire to be more high tech–and quite frankly, the cult-like devotion some people have toward their smartphones is somewhat disturbing–but because my eight year old clam shell phone is being held together by duct tape.